What happens when Flint makes a Line Array?
- Thread starter Flint
- Start date
I was using Forstner Bits, so no. I did drill pilot holes with a narrow bit using three boards at a time (making it so I didn't have to measure and mark each board individually), but the Forstner Bits get dangerously hot when the sawdust or waste wood gets stuck in the bit while deep in a hole. So, I did them one board at a time - all of the holes on one side about three-quarters of the way through, then flip them over and cut the remaining out. Smooth, easy, but time consuming and massive amounts of waste - which is the point. I wanted these braces to be lighter and take up less internal volume inside the enclosure, while remaining solid to reduce panel vibration.
I will add, I just put a new drywall dust bag in my shop vacuum which was collecting all the waste from the cutting. When I was done, not only was my large particle separating bucket filled (I had to empty it twice during this process), the filter bag was completely packed. That was a huge amount of dust and waste - meaning all that volume and weight won't be in my speaker cabs.
I believe Our Man Flint is building some subs (yes I used the plural) to go along with his new line array speakers he built.
I am definitely in for the results.
bmwuk
Well-Known Member
Confused on the amount of holes
Weight-reduction for support braces and flow-through(?) for tuning.
Right... the braces are to strengthen the cabinets and reduce panel vibrations. Since these are low bass enclosures and they will be sealed, airflow is not a concern, so I am not rounding over the holes and non-glued edges of the braces. Basically, the inside of the enclosure while the woofers are operating will be pressure changes.
D
Deleted member 133
Guest
Are those all glue-only joints? And if so are you at all worried that some of them might eventually crack and then vibrate? Or is the glue / adhesive you are using immune to that?
I've been doing glue only joints for decades. Any mechanical fixing methods, like screws, brads, dowels, biscuit, etc., actually weakens the MDF at the joint. I've also discovered that if you ever try to break a glue joint on MDF, it is the material next to the glue breaks, not the glue joint itself. So, while it is a bit more difficult to assemble a box, the glue only joint is the strongest and most reliable.
bmwuk
Well-Known Member
Okay. Got it. I was confused thinking how the hell can something be sealed with all those holes. Ha ha. Internal bracing
When can we expect to see some specs man? At least give us a little teaser.
Box style and volume, woofers T/S specs, amp stuf...
I may never share all of that info, I have learned I have some proprietary skills in designing speakers that I'd like to keep to myself should I go into business building speaker. I did infer which woofer I got by stating its price and size. I also shared some of the info on the enclosures. I'll even share the wiring diagram, but how I design my enclosure around the specs of the woofer I am leaning towards keeping a tad private.
As a note I had one of these woofers delivered and measured it after burn-in prior to designing the enclosures and the enclosures are built exactly to spec, including the amount of material I removed from the internal braces and taking into account the properties of the polyester with which I am filling stuffing the boxes.
So, in a few months maybe even you could buy these speakers for the low low price of an arm and a leg spread over 6 months with no interest.