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Cool new DIY Equipment Rack

Flint

Prodigal Son
Superstar
I've converted my front room from a yoga studio / office into a sort-of makeshift demo room for my speaker designs. For almost a year, I've been using a mid-century modern side table to hold my electronics. Recently, however, I moved my turntable into that room and the amount of gear piled up on the little table which was never intended for A/V use got out of hand and something had to give.

I've been talking to a good friend about making an equipment rack for their listening room and while drawing up plans for a threaded rod based A/V rack I realized I could easily put something together for my front room with very low costs because I had everything necessary in my shop except the metal hardware. So, I picked up the hardware, consisting of three 36 inch long 5/8" threaded rod and 24 nuts and associated washers.

After drawing up my plans for relatively over-sized shelves to allow for placement of items like an Amazon Echo Dot, DAC, or any other small items I often find I place next to the primary gear, and determining the amount of lumber I needed, I started work.

Four shelves were planned with some sort of wood risers on the bottom of the threaded rods to raise the height of the rack so the turntable was high enough I wouldn't have to bend way over to see the needle placements. To ensure stability and control any potential vibrations, I chose layered shelves made from one bottom layer of 3/4" MDF (leftover from speaker projects) and one top layer of cabinet grade 1/2" birch plywood. I would band the front three edges of the shelves with 3/4" white pine. After rounding over all the edges of the shelves and sanding smooth, I used a Forstner bit and drilled holes for the threaded rod. Then I stained the wood, lightly sanded them after the stain dried, then applied a thick single coat of weather-proof high gloss polyurethane to the shelves.

Here's some photos of the process:

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Photo 1: Gluing the shelf layers togethers and clamping until dried

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Photo 2: Gluing and clamping the edge wood banding onto the sides. After dried, I did the same for the front edge


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Photo 3: Stained shelf - I didn't intentionally plan it, but the stain happened to match the wood flooring in my front room




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Photo 4: I took some old 4x4 stock that's been hanging out in my garage for well over a decade and made risers/feet for the rods
 
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More photos...

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Photo 5: Shelves after coat of heavy, thick Spar Polyurethane

After the urethane dried over 24 hours, I assembled the rack. What I hadn't considered was the amount of time it would take to thread the buts onto the rods and then move them to the locations necessary to hold the shelves in place. I made the rack with three upright rods in order to both save money and to simplify getting each shelf level. I used a proper carpenter's bubble level to get each shelf perfectly level from side to side then front to back before going to the next shelf. It took a REALLY long time to run all those nuts into the proper locations.

Here's the finished rack:

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Photo 6: Rack from the front with my gear on it.


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Photo 7: Rack from the side


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Photo 8: Rack from mid-height view
 
So far I am very pleased with the design and the cost of building it - mostly because I already owned the lumber, stain, polyurethane, glue, brushes, latex gloves, etc. necessary to make this thing. The only costs to me were the 5/8" hardware, which amounted to about $50.

One thing I am not happy with are the risers/feet. They do a fine job of raising the height by about 7 inches, but they are not half as stable as I anticipated. I am inclined to either replace them with something more stable, or I may cut some wood and connect them together, thus stabilizing them to each other. This will make sweeping the floor under the rack less simple, but I think I want to make things more stable.
 
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I'll also add that I am displeased with how sloppy the cables look with the new rack. I may have to make some exact sized interconnects to reduce the amount of wire hanging behind the rack and then liberally use Velcro cable ties on the rest of the cables, bundling AC cables together, signal cables together, and speaker cable together, to clean up the appearance. The open design of the rack does nothing to hide the mess of the cables and power strips.
 
I'll also add that I am displeased with how sloppy the cables look with the new rack. I may have to make some exact sized interconnects to reduce the amount of wire hanging behind the rack and then liberally use Velcro cable ties on the rest of the cables, bundling AC cables together, signal cables together, and speaker cable together, to clean up the appearance. The open design of the rack does nothing to hide the mess of the cables and power strips.

Get some black wire duct, attach it to the back center support and run all your cables in it.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/cables-wires-management/wire-ducts-raceways/486?FV=fffc012a
 
Well, the instability of the base/risers/feet was really bothering me. I am sure everything was fine, but my OCD took over and I had to fix things ASAP.

So, I took some scrap pine already ripped to about 2.5" width and cut 6 pieces to fit inside the feet/risers, cut pocket holes, rounded over for cosmetics, sanded, then painted with two coats of Flat Black spray paint. I did all of that before I went to bed last night.

This morning the paint was dry, so I mounted them and the rack is now as stable as it will ever be given the design. I am very, very happy with things now.

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Photo 9: Newly added braces which connect the front two feet together then connect to the rear foot.
 
Very cool! I built something similar about 20 years ago using 3/4" rods. I even added a matching coffee table. Check out the massive TV. Oh how times change. My computer monitor is bigger than that now. :D Although, I will always love the Martin Logan CLS electrostats.

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I'm curious as to why you elected to have only three (and not four) risers in the first place?
 
I'm curious as to why you elected to have only three (and not four) risers in the first place?

I mentioned it briefly above, but there are several reasons I chose just three uprights:
  • The cost of the hardware was 25% less with 3 versus 4 uprights
  • Adjusting the nuts to achieve a perfectly level shelf was vastly easier using a bubble level.
  • Ensuring the rack was equally balanced so weight was distributed solidly to each upright was quite simple this way.
  • Aligning the holes I drilled in the shelves was easier as each marking and drilling out introduces opportunity to be off perfect, and the holes were just big enough for the rods so any variation from perfect placement of the holes would introduce a problem.
  • I personally think it looks better and, to me, appears more scientifically engineered instead of aesthetically engineered - a 2 dimensional plane is made with 3 points naturally, with 4 points a 2D plane is difficult as one point will always be slightly off the perfect plane.

So there.
 
I mentioned it briefly above, but there are several reasons I chose just three uprights:
  • The cost of the hardware was 25% less with 3 versus 4 uprights
  • Adjusting the nuts to achieve a perfectly level shelf was vastly easier using a bubble level.
  • Ensuring the rack was equally balanced so weight was distributed solidly to each upright was quite simple this way.
  • Aligning the holes I drilled in the shelves was easier as each marking and drilling out introduces opportunity to be off perfect, and the holes were just big enough for the rods so any variation from perfect placement of the holes would introduce a problem.
  • I personally think it looks better and, to me, appears more scientifically engineered instead of aesthetically engineered - a 2 dimensional plane is made with 3 points naturally, with 4 points a 2D plane is difficult as one point will always be slightly off the perfect plane.

So there.



The last point is pretty much the only valid one, right?

You spent additional money on the braces.
Bracing the 3 point shelf was probably as much/more trouble as leveling a 4 point shelf.
Weight distribution isn’t really an issue when all 4 corners are supported (unless your supports aren’t sufficient)
The risk of misaligned holes isn’t significant, really. If you can align 3 holes you can align 4.
That last one thought is a doozie and try as I might, I can find no flaw in the logic.
 
The last point is pretty much the only valid one, right?

You spent additional money on the braces.
Bracing the 3 point shelf was probably as much trouble and leveling a 4 point shelf.
Weight distribution isn’t much of an issue when all 4 corners are supported.
The risk of misaligned holes isn’t significant, really. If you can align 3 holes you can align 4.

I was dead serious about all those points. The holes were not absolutely perfect with this and was quite difficult to get the rods through all four shelves. Likewise, leveling took quite awhile, and it would have been amplified if there was one more set of nuts. I think you under estimate the difference
 
I was dead serious about all those points. The holes were not absolutely perfect with this and was quite difficult to get the rods through all four shelves. Likewise, leveling took quite awhile, and it would have been amplified if there was one more set of nuts. I think you under estimate the difference

Meh

I think you understate how much you value aesthetics.
 
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