1000 words!
- Thread starter Deacon
- Start date
Deerhunter
Well-Known Member
Dude very sweet...
You suck!
You suck!
Anyone have a link to somewhat recent DIY Acoustic Panels?
and/or where I can buy some that aren't tooooo expensive?
and/or...how to determine where to put acoustic panels? I remember these threads from a LONG time ago, but don't remember anything
and/or where I can buy some that aren't tooooo expensive?
and/or...how to determine where to put acoustic panels? I remember these threads from a LONG time ago, but don't remember anything
Deacon
Humble Servant
I tried to tell you.
Deacon
Humble Servant
I sense you are where I was...so my first question is, what level of actual hands on construction do you want/are willing to perform? For me I didn't mind putting them together but there was no way I was going to measure and cut and clamp and etc. Don't have any of the tools needed nor the desire or skill.
I ended up watching tons of youtube videos of panel construction to get ideas of what I was willing to do. I saw some panel builds that didn't require frames and I was tempted to do that but I wanted to use rockwool which is less rigid than OC 703. So while I was searching for the rockwool I ended up here:
Owens Corning Acoustic Insulation - Trusted Sound Absorbing Material for Panels
Get industry-leading Owens Corning 703 acoustic insulation for soundproof panels, bass traps, and more. Ideal for studios, walls, ceilings, and DIY acoustic builds.
www.acoustimac.com
They also have frames which was perfect for me so I just ordered the requisite amount I needed.
I ordered this fabric from amazon:
Amazon.com: EOVEA - Cotton Polyester Fabric by The Yard – 60" Wide Broadcloth Fabric, Soft, Lightweight & Breathable Material for Lining, Curtains, Bedding, Skirts, Sewing Projects (Brown, 10 Yard)
Shop EOVEA at the Amazon Arts, Crafts & Sewing store. Free Shipping on eligible items. Save on everyday low prices.
www.amazon.com
At that point it was just a matter of painting the frames, putting in the insulation, wrapping them in fabric, and some staples here and there. Attached some hardware to hang them on the wall and here we are.
I have enough material to make several more but what I have already put up has made such a difference I don't want to add anymore without getting some proper measurements of what is actually going on in my room.
My room was very reflective which I knew was problematic but I just chose to ignore it. Once I retired and had more 'free' time to spend in the HT I had to address the elephant.
As I said before, I knew it would make a difference but I was not prepared for the results to be that noticeable. Be mindful that this is all without any measurements but the difference you realize with your own senses is remarkable. If I was blindfolded and lead around my house I would know immediately when I was lead into the HT because the noise floor in that room is well below other rooms.
At some point I want to get some actual measurements done to see what I can still improve. Don't have any real bass traps, but do I really need them? I don't know but I know I still have a null in the room that duals is not eliminating at the moment. Would bass traps address that or do I need to get more aggressive with placement? I just don't know until I get more information than I have with my limited understanding.
Exactly what I'm looking for.I sense you are where I was...so my first question is, what level of actual hands on construction do you want/are willing to perform? For me I didn't mind putting them together but there was no way I was going to measure and cut and clamp and etc. Don't have any of the tools needed nor the desire or skill.
I ended up watching tons of youtube videos of panel construction to get ideas of what I was willing to do. I saw some panel builds that didn't require frames and I was tempted to do that but I wanted to use rockwool which is less rigid than OC 703. So while I was searching for the rockwool I ended up here:
Owens Corning Acoustic Insulation - Trusted Sound Absorbing Material for Panels
Get industry-leading Owens Corning 703 acoustic insulation for soundproof panels, bass traps, and more. Ideal for studios, walls, ceilings, and DIY acoustic builds.
They also have frames which was perfect for me so I just ordered the requisite amount I needed.
I ordered this fabric from amazon:
Amazon.com: EOVEA - Cotton Polyester Fabric by The Yard – 60" Wide Broadcloth Fabric, Soft, Lightweight & Breathable Material for Lining, Curtains, Bedding, Skirts, Sewing Projects (Brown, 10 Yard)
Shop EOVEA at the Amazon Arts, Crafts & Sewing store. Free Shipping on eligible items. Save on everyday low prices.www.amazon.com
At that point it was just a matter of painting the frames, putting in the insulation, wrapping them in fabric, and some staples here and there. Attached some hardware to hang them on the wall and here we are.
I have enough material to make several more but what I have already put up has made such a difference I don't want to add anymore without getting some proper measurements of what is actually going on in my room.
My room was very reflective which I knew was problematic but I just chose to ignore it. Once I retired and had more 'free' time to spend in the HT I had to address the elephant.
As I said before, I knew it would make a difference but I was not prepared for the results to be that noticeable. Be mindful that this is all without any measurements but the difference you realize with your own senses is remarkable. If I was blindfolded and lead around my house I would know immediately when I was lead into the HT because the noise floor in that room is well below other rooms.
At some point I want to get some actual measurements done to see what I can still improve. Don't have any real bass traps, but do I really need them? I don't know but I know I still have a null in the room that duals is not eliminating at the moment. Would bass traps address that or do I need to get more aggressive with placement? I just don't know until I get more information than I have with my limited understanding.
Did you get 6lb or 8lb? 1", 2" or 4" rockwool?
Deacon
Humble Servant
I originally ordered 6 of the 6lb 2" panels and 2 of the 8lb 4" panels, so it should have come six 2" panels in one box and two 4" panels in another box. I only got one box of the 2" 6lb panels. When I contacted them they saw that I only received the one box and shipped the other box out but when I got it, it was a full box (six) panels of the 2" 8lb rockwool. So I just stacked 2 panels together and had two 4" panels and two 2" 8lb panels left over.
Also I must warn you, the frames are probably the crappiest you could expect. If you build frames yourself you would most likely pick out the straightest wood to use, well they don't do that. Some of the frames were slightly bowed but it was within tolerance and they were reasonably priced and accomplished my goal. I'm not enough of a perfectionist to care about those superficial flaws, they still perform the job very well.
If you look at my pics you can tell some of the frames are not straight on both sides.
Deacon
Humble Servant
So its been almost a month and I am still getting things settled but I think I have some pretty definitive conclusions.
Background: Got the 2200 working in the mix. Had to get a A-D switch cause the 2200 only has analog outputs and the receiver only has digital video inputs. Picture was pretty bad but it worked and I could play material. That lasted about 2 wks until the switch crapped out. Bit the bullet and got a BD player (that's right, I'm a last adopter) so have been bum rushing demos and various movies.
Side note: I was using CEC to control everything through the roku remote which was working flawlessly. When I added the BD player that all stopped. The roku would switch inputs, control the volume, etc. Once I added the BD that all stopped. I didn't change any settings other than assign the BD input to the receiver but now CEC has stopped and it is pissing me off cause I feel it has to be something simple.
After running each sub independently the most notable thing about the two of them (PB 12+/2, TV2112m) is the TV just seems to be much more effortless. At normal listening I would say you hardly notice a difference between the two, but I do notice with the SVS with certain material/effects I can tell the sub is producing the output whereas the TV never seems to draw attention to itself. The bass is there but you can't really tell its coming from the sub.
I plugged 2 ports on the SVS and running it at 16hz mode. This has brought its output a little closer to the PSA and I am running it nearfield. That is giving me much more tactile response in the seating area.
I have the PSA in the front close to where the SVS was originally. Although I am in a basement on a concrete slab the TV is giving me some chest feel. I won't say 'slam' as it's not a forceful unsettling feeling but rather a wave that feels like a touch. Didn't have that before with just the SVS.
So running both I now have some chest feel and tactile rumble in the seating!
There is one last place I want to try with sub location but it requires lifting it up and weight aside its too big to do alone.
I know I now need to get things measured to see where I need to go next. I am just reluctant to buy all the stuff I would need knowing I will only use it once. I am not a 'tinkerer' once I get things where I want them I don't usually mess with things. This is all after just running Audessy and gain matching with a Rat Shack meter. I am wondering if there would be any (or how much) improvement if I added a minidsp to better align and integrate the subs but that circles back around to needing a measurement mic, stand, etc that I am trying to avoid.
I have not had much exposure to a large number of various manufacturers' subwoofers but I can say in my limited experience with what I have heard with my own ears, outside of the IB sub at Flints, this is the cleanest (effortless) sub that I have been around.
Background: Got the 2200 working in the mix. Had to get a A-D switch cause the 2200 only has analog outputs and the receiver only has digital video inputs. Picture was pretty bad but it worked and I could play material. That lasted about 2 wks until the switch crapped out. Bit the bullet and got a BD player (that's right, I'm a last adopter) so have been bum rushing demos and various movies.
Side note: I was using CEC to control everything through the roku remote which was working flawlessly. When I added the BD player that all stopped. The roku would switch inputs, control the volume, etc. Once I added the BD that all stopped. I didn't change any settings other than assign the BD input to the receiver but now CEC has stopped and it is pissing me off cause I feel it has to be something simple.
After running each sub independently the most notable thing about the two of them (PB 12+/2, TV2112m) is the TV just seems to be much more effortless. At normal listening I would say you hardly notice a difference between the two, but I do notice with the SVS with certain material/effects I can tell the sub is producing the output whereas the TV never seems to draw attention to itself. The bass is there but you can't really tell its coming from the sub.
I plugged 2 ports on the SVS and running it at 16hz mode. This has brought its output a little closer to the PSA and I am running it nearfield. That is giving me much more tactile response in the seating area.
I have the PSA in the front close to where the SVS was originally. Although I am in a basement on a concrete slab the TV is giving me some chest feel. I won't say 'slam' as it's not a forceful unsettling feeling but rather a wave that feels like a touch. Didn't have that before with just the SVS.
So running both I now have some chest feel and tactile rumble in the seating!
There is one last place I want to try with sub location but it requires lifting it up and weight aside its too big to do alone.
I know I now need to get things measured to see where I need to go next. I am just reluctant to buy all the stuff I would need knowing I will only use it once. I am not a 'tinkerer' once I get things where I want them I don't usually mess with things. This is all after just running Audessy and gain matching with a Rat Shack meter. I am wondering if there would be any (or how much) improvement if I added a minidsp to better align and integrate the subs but that circles back around to needing a measurement mic, stand, etc that I am trying to avoid.
I have not had much exposure to a large number of various manufacturers' subwoofers but I can say in my limited experience with what I have heard with my own ears, outside of the IB sub at Flints, this is the cleanest (effortless) sub that I have been around.
Last edited:
bmwuk
Well-Known Member
This
I've run into this. No solution. Sometimes related to my apple tv device and having to set it again.
Deacon
Humble Servant
I was trying some new adjustments and tooling around with the HT yesterday and did a bunch of re-calibrations etc. and things are getting even better.
Question for any other PSA sub owners (or those in the know), the gain structure on these subs is not typical. It seems that the gain does not increase in a linear fashion as the dial is turned. Is it logarithmic?
This is the first sub that I have had the gain past halfway (12 o'clock).
Question for any other PSA sub owners (or those in the know), the gain structure on these subs is not typical. It seems that the gain does not increase in a linear fashion as the dial is turned. Is it logarithmic?
This is the first sub that I have had the gain past halfway (12 o'clock).
CMonster
Well-Known Member
I got a couple PSA subs back in 2012 (the year the company was founded) and had the same experience with the gain. I was afraid something was wrong since there was very little output until they were turned past 12 o'clock. Very different from the SVS subs I'd had. Anyway, I reached out to Tom V and he confirmed that was the expected behavior.
Between 1 and 2 o'clock on my 4 PSA subs. That's after I gain matched them.