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New speaker cabinet.

It may be the owner measured the holes and they were less than 15" and they incorrectly assumed that 15" speakers wouldn't fit.

Also, I recall the 4622 having port tubes and not just holes in the baffle. I could be wrong, though. Whatever the case, you want to get the right woofers and if necessary tune to a lower frequency if you want to rock out synth quality bass.
 
The drawings from JBL show the tubes also. Was thinking that the weight of 160 lbs loaded would be a pain to move. So thinking about putting this as the sub duty in the home theater. 2035 speakers were on the drawings and some have upgraded and used the 2226. This ups the power from 400 watts per to 600 watts per. Starting with the EV 15's that came out of the TL15-1 at 400 watts per. I have a Crown ComTech 410 amp to power them.
 
Hmmm... as a sub at home a different driver, probably only one, and a very low tuning would be best.
 
Home subs need to operate below 40Hz, which PA subs are rare to provide .
 
JBL specs on the cabinets shows 30 to 630 hz. with 3 db down on 40 hz correct but it should be a fun project of testing with True RTA and gear. I also have a Behringer Feedback destroyer to work on the parametric EQ.
with 40 hz 3 db down that would put 30 hz down 6 or 9 db down.
 
Worst case you have an end table to put your drinks on

or I could load them up with the pair of 2226 jbl drivers, find to healthy young people to move the 160 lbs of speaker and use them with the amp and push them to 800 watts.
 
Wheels. That's what I used when I had a dual 18" version of that cab.

The 30Hz rating is -10dB limit.
 
and if you take the LAB 15 that can do 20 hz. It would not help or work below the 40 hz the cabinet is designed and cutting at.
 
and if you take the LAB 15 that can do 20 hz. It would not help or work below the 40 hz the cabinet is designed and cutting at.

Right... so plugging one of the ports will lower the tuning, or gluing tubes to the ports of the right length could also lower the tuning. Another option is to only use one woofer and plug the other speaker cutout, which lowers the tuning for the single speaker. Really, it is a wonderful large cabinet and with just a little work and the right driver it could be made to play very efficiently to well below 20Hz.
 
I also have a Behringer Feedback destroyer to work on the parametric EQ.

One thing I have found about the FB Destroyer Pro is that the filters are extremely ring-y; that is, the signal will hang over a bit once the original signal stops. I first noticed this on my subs because the bass seemed "flabby" when playing most music. At first I thought it was just the low frequency reverberation time of my room. I investigated more with a pulsed sine wave low frequency signal which I recorded directly from the output of the FB Destroyer Pro into my digital audio workstation. Sure enough, the signal waveform on the DAW showed extreme ringing when the signal stopped abruptly. THIS IS NOT GOOD!!!

Needless to say, the FB Destroyer Pro got demoted from duty in my system, and now just plugs up a 1 rackspace hole in my rack.

I suppose to keep costs down, Behringer used very cheap DSP, the least that they could get away with hoping that nobody would notice the ringing.
 
One thing I have found about the FB Destroyer Pro is that the filters are extremely ring-y; that is, the signal will hang over a bit once the original signal stops. I first noticed this on my subs because the bass seemed "flabby" when playing most music. At first I thought it was just the low frequency reverberation time of my room. I investigated more with a pulsed sine wave low frequency signal which I recorded directly from the output of the FB Destroyer Pro into my digital audio workstation. Sure enough, the signal waveform on the DAW showed extreme ringing when the signal stopped abruptly. THIS IS NOT GOOD!!!

Needless to say, the FB Destroyer Pro got demoted from duty in my system, and now just plugs up a 1 rackspace hole in my rack.

I suppose to keep costs down, Behringer used very cheap DSP, the least that they could get away with hoping that nobody would notice the ringing.
Thanks for this note and information saves me lots of time and will do the same. demote and sell off. Might be better off using one of the new Parts express DSP or the DBX drive rack when upgraded.
 
or I could load them up with the pair of 2226 jbl drivers, find to healthy young people to move the 160 lbs of speaker and use them with the amp and push them to 800 watts.
I said worst case. Putting in drivers and making it work is better than worst case. :)
 
Thanks for this note and information saves me lots of time and will do the same. demote and sell off. Might be better off using one of the new Parts express DSP or the DBX drive rack when upgraded.
Absolutely.....I would just do the filter ringing test first on the unit you're considering. I used I think a 50Hz sine wave of something like 1 second in length and cut off at the end at the peak of the waveform, which I played from my DAW from one track while recording the output of the FB Destroyer on another track and compared at the two. The FB Destroyer rang for something like 1/2 second! Amazing....
 
Absolutely.....I would just do the filter ringing test first on the unit you're considering. I used I think a 50Hz sine wave of something like 1 second in length and cut off at the end at the peak of the waveform, which I played from my DAW from one track while recording the output of the FB Destroyer on another track and compared at the two. The FB Destroyer rang for something like 1/2 second! Amazing....
Obviously it was noticeable enough while listening to it that it spurred you into doing some follow-up testing, but the thought crosses my mind as to what the "ringing" response plot looked like. I imagine if it was all gone after 0.5 seconds that it was a very steeply dropping response which also makes my curious side wonder at what level (relative to signal) does this ringing remain audible? I don't know if I'm expressing it well, but if the curve is extremely steep then this implies that at some point it passes through what I'll call the (horizontal) line of audibility (before dropping to zero.) So if we have a vertical line representing a point in time after the signal stops, then where the two lines intersect is at the point in time where the effect is no longer audible. Now if that vertical line is tucked up really close to the point in time where the input signal stops (ie. there's a really steep curve) then this implies that practically ANY ringing, whether it's 0.5 seconds or much less, could very well be audible and cause the flabbiness that you heard. Just curious.

Jeff
 
Obviously it was noticeable enough while listening to it that it spurred you into doing some follow-up testing, but the thought crosses my mind as to what the "ringing" response plot looked like. I imagine if it was all gone after 0.5 seconds that it was a very steeply dropping response which also makes my curious side wonder at what level (relative to signal) does this ringing remain audible? I don't know if I'm expressing it well, but if the curve is extremely steep then this implies that at some point it passes through what I'll call the (horizontal) line of audibility (before dropping to zero.) So if we have a vertical line representing a point in time after the signal stops, then where the two lines intersect is at the point in time where the effect is no longer audible. Now if that vertical line is tucked up really close to the point in time where the input signal stops (ie. there's a really steep curve) then this implies that practically ANY ringing, whether it's 0.5 seconds or much less, could very well be audible and cause the flabbiness that you heard. Just curious.

Jeff
I don't quite follow you, but what I was looking at was in the time domain, not the frequency domain. NO ringing is the goal in any digital filter, but 1/2 second is simply outrageously bad, regardless of the sharpness of the EQ applied. The effect was plainly audible with music which had frequencies directed at the subs (which I currently cross over at 100Hz, with no high pass on my mains). Sending a pulsed low frequency signal just to the subs, with all other speakers shut off, clearly showed that the sound was ringing out for a very audible amount of time. Recording the direct output of the FB Destroyer confirmed the effect clearly was coming from it, and not the subs nor the room. Recording the output of my subwoofer crossover by itself shows an immediate cutoff with no ringing, as it should be. I was frankly shocked at how bad the FB Destroyer was in this test.
 
I don't quite follow you, but what I was looking at was in the time domain, not the frequency domain. NO ringing is the goal in any digital filter, but 1/2 second is simply outrageously bad, regardless of the sharpness of the EQ applied. The effect was plainly audible with music which had frequencies directed at the subs (which I currently cross over at 100Hz, with no high pass on my mains). Sending a pulsed low frequency signal just to the subs, with all other speakers shut off, clearly showed that the sound was ringing out for a very audible amount of time. Recording the direct output of the FB Destroyer confirmed the effect clearly was coming from it, and not the subs nor the room. Recording the output of my subwoofer crossover by itself shows an immediate cutoff with no ringing, as it should be. I was frankly shocked at how bad the FB Destroyer was in this test.
Yeah, sometimes I'm pretty bad at explaining things about which I know naught.

The underlined part actually answers my question (however incoherently I put it.)
 
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