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Re-Connecting (With) A Favourite Amp

D

Deleted member 133

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The first truly-powerful stereo amplifier that I ever bought is the Hitachi HMA-8300. It's a 53 lb. class "G" beast rated at 200 W/ch (continuous) and 400 W/ch (peak) into 8 ohms, with very low noise / distortion.

Over the years it has seen use in many a situation: in my residence room at university; at residence floor parties, and, one time, powering a huge pair of PA speakers in a concert hall.

Quite some time ago it got put into storage in my basement, then got loaned out to a friend, and finally returned to me when he said it was not working properly. I never bothered to check it out - just put it back into storage.

A couple of weeks ago I remembered it and decided to put it back into service. So I took it into my preferred local repair shop and $380 later, it's back home in like-new condition.

I swapped it for a NAD amp that was powering my 2.1 system that sits within my main HT's 7.1 system. Basically I can feed any analogue source from the Zone 2 output on my Onkyo PR-SC886 to a dedicated speaker / sub combo consisting of a pair of Koss CM/1020 and a SVS 20-39 PC+ - taking advantage of the existing room / its acoustics. So if I want to just listen to some stereo source, I can fire it up, instead of the whole HT.

It took but a couple of minutes to re-balance the system and then I skipped through a bunch of CDs to give it a listen. I tried a number of volume levels pretty much up to as much as any sane person would ever want to be in the same room with (which is probably several dBs short of "Heeman" levels - but I digress).

The amp sounded exactly as I remember it - which is to say like any other solid-state amp that I've listened to that's not been driven into clipping: indistinguishable from all the other "quiet" "clean" amps I've ever listened to. (You do know that they all "sound" the same - right? :) ) There was certainly absolutely no sign that the amp was working even moderately hard to deliver such loud levels.

My only quibble... One of the things I knew was not working when it went into the shop was the right power meter. The lights (two per) were ok, but it was not registering anything the last time I used it. Well they fixed the meter, but they also decided to replace the meters' bulbs with LED units and they are too white / bright for my liking. The former lights had a much nicer "tube-like" warm glow to them. I do admit that the meters' needles are now visible across the room though.

Jeff

ps. This is but one of several restorations that I've been having done over the last couple of months. There's two other pieces that are now like-new as well: Pioneer SX-750 stereo receiver and an Akai GXC-325D cassette deck. I'm awaiting a new stylus for an ADC XLM MkII Improved cartridge, that will be fitted to a Pioneer PL-510 turntable. They'll form the heart of a "nostalgia" stereo system that I'll set up in a spare room, along with a pair of Bose 301 speakers (which is how they were all last together when they were all working decades ago.)

There's two other components still in the shop (a Pioneer LD player, and a Nakamichi cassette deck) and I'm thinking of taking one other it for some noisy switch cleaning / replacement as need be.
 
My H/K Citation 19 just took a shit so it's now at a repair shop getting fixed. It's a 50 pound beast of an amp that only has 100 watts per channel 2 channel only. But man is it a lovely sounding amp. So I'm getting it fixed so it can once again power my def tech bp7001's my repair guy said he loves the citation amps and rates them as high as McIntosh. It's a beast but I bought it at a pawn shop 15 years ago for 80.00 so even if the repair is $250.00 I figure I'm still ahead.
 
My H/K Citation 19 just took a shit so it's now at a repair shop getting fixed.

If he replaces any transistors, you might ask him if he used the original transistor part number which was in the amp from the factory, or a generic replacement part. Many of the older transistors are unavailable. Ironically, this problem is far worse than with vacuum tubes, with a few tubes from the 1930s still being made and routinely available - the 300B and the venerable 6L6 are two.
 
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