• Welcome to The Audio Annex! If you have any trouble logging in or signing up, please contact 'admin - at - theaudioannex.com'. Enjoy!
  • HTTPS (secure web browser connection) has been enabled - just add "https://" to the start of the URL in your address bar, e.g. "https://theaudioannex.com/forum/"
  • Congratulations! If you're seeing this notice, it means you're connected to the new server. Go ahead and post as usual, enjoy!
  • I've just upgraded the forum software to Xenforo 2.0. Please let me know if you have any problems with it. I'm still working on installing styles... coming soon.

Insulating bonus room

Maximo

Well-Known Member
Ok, so I know it has been on again off again but we still have hope of moving. We have found a new house that is under construction. I have a meeting with the builder tomorrow. It has an awesome bonus room that will be given to my (by my wife).

Anyway, I really want to know what I can have the builder do to isolate the sound in the bonus room.

Any suggestions? IF this really does happen I will post pictures and diagrams. Also, just by luck the back two corners have HVAC ducts in the corner on the floor and would easily facilitate two corner bass traps.
 
When we finished our basement I had my "man cave" room double insulated. Sound can still travel up the HVAC vents though. :(

I have to really be cranking the volume for it to be noticeable on the 1st and 2nd story though.

I think insulating is just the first step.

D
 
I think the product that presents the most value by far is Green Glue. And I'd hedge a bet it'd be the cheapest to have implemented by the builder's drywall contractors. You can double up on either 1/2" or 5/8" sheets of drywall with the green glue in-between layers. (I used 1/2" osb plywood as my first layer to screw light to moderate weight items to without going crazy trying to find studs through more material). Of course as Doghart mentioned insulation should go in the walls. After that measures can be taken to puddy, seal, weatherstrip appropriately small gaps throughout the room that may allow sound to pass through. I purchased all of my soundproofing products from the company T7 linked to...if the bonus room is upstairs consider installing 1 or 2 lb MLV under the carpet padding. Bass will be the toughest as mass is needed and much of it. Flint and others could probably speak more to that...
 
I think the builder is using spray foam. What do you think things would sound like if we had them spray foam all six sides of that room and nothing else?
 
it'd be worth a try, everything I spoke of can be implemented after the fact...
 
Each of the strategies pretty much start with insulation (usually firegass but foam should work) in the cavities between the studs/joists.
 
Spray in cellulose insulation is significantly more sound deadening than the expanded foam which is too stiff and hard for sound absorption.

High mass is the best path to a high STC quotient. That means multiple layers of drywall and floorboard is an easy and somewhat cheap way of isolating the room. Green glue enhances the isolation a massive amount more. And floating the floor, using isolation clips on the walls and ceilings is the best route.

http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/isolation-clips
 
spray foam will create a seal and contain heat. but it is not porous on the surface so it will not allow the sound to penetrate into the foam and be absorbed. I think it would act more like the green silicone and prevent the air from moving.
 
My walls in my theater are filled w/ blown cellulose and I think it does a pretty good job. Bass is a whole different matter, though. Just ask my neighbors...

John
 
Well it looks like if I do this, it will be unfaced fiberglass batt insulation. For $350 should I even bother? It has to make some difference right?

Really can't do anything else real crazy right now. There just isn't time.
 
Back
Top