New Display - Need Input

[Haywood]

I own several Samsung displays and they are all excellent. I did not want to spend big bucks here. The compromises made involved lack of local dimming and other more sophisticated features that render the picture quality on the better sets superior. I have no reason to believe that I bought a piece of junk from any information I have been able to find.

 

[walls]

Was just sharing our experience with a couple toshiba sets. Ours were the bottom line sets that, if I remember correctly, were on sale that year for Xmas pretty much cheaper then any other set their size.
I do have a 32" Toshiba LED on our pool deck that is on it's third year. And that set sees brutal temps as well as large humidity swings.

My son recently bought one of the better 55" Vizio sets and so far it's been a nice TV. And I gotta say that for a "budget" set it looks pretty damn nice.

 

[Haywood]

The set I bought is not quite bottom of the line, but it is on their lower end. I did not buy it at Costco, so I don't have to worry about it being a model made specifically for a big box store with cheaper parts (which can be a problem). I bought it at a store that specializes in TVs and they had pretty good service. I took a pass on the 5 year warranty for $159. Given the fact that the set only cost $559 and has a basic manufacturers warranty that should cover the period during which it is most likely to fail, I didn't think it likely that I'd come out ahead on it.

I've watched more stuff on it and I think it looks quite decent for the money. I'm rather happy with it.

On a less sunny note, I accidentally had Amazon ship my new Roku to the house in Michigan. At least I have my Chromecast.

 

[Botch]

I took a pass on the 5 year warranty for $159. Given the fact that the set only cost $559 and has a basic manufacturers warranty that should cover the period during which it is most likely to fail, I didn't think it likely that I'd come out ahead on it.

You done good.
Business Fact: No company offers an "Extended Warranty" that they'll lose money on.
Engineering Fact: A weak electronic component is most likely to fail very early on, during its "Standard" warranty. We reliability engineers call these "infant mortality" failures, and component/card/SRU/LRU burn-in's are designed to remove these IM failures before installation into a larger system. They occur on the downward slope of a typical "bathtub" failure curve: