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Sealed vs Ported

Count mine as another vote for shellac as an excellent sealant and primer.

Years (and years and years) ago I built a set of bookshelves/cabinets that flank the fireplace in my family room HT. I sealed the (fairly knotted) raw wood with shellac and then painted over it. Over the years I've never had a problem with adhesion of that paint and have never had to do anything other than touch up the odd impact ding here and there. I recall that the paint went on over the shellac very smoothly and that I could feel it sticking and binding to the shellac as I worked the brush.

Jeff
 

sealed vs. ported ~

For all you tech-smart members . . . .

In subwoofer advertising for acoustic suspension subs they tout quicker, tiighter response.
Is there anything to this claim, or is it another advertising ploy to impress the consumer? I don't recall seeing these specific terms used in reviews/tests.

I've owned ported and sealed subs. The M&K sub I have now (sealed) I like best of all of them. It's also the best sub I've owned. (quality & price point)

Any of my impressions related to mfgr's claims?
I'm not sure I, persoally, could detect a 'quicker' ressonse.


:text-nocomment:
 
Sealed subs have a output level which drops as the frequency goes down and thus they are often perceived as "tight" or "quick" to the listener because they don't often have the bloom, boom, or sustaining thuds that a poorly designed ported sub might have. Really, it is more about setup, acoustics, and sub quality than anything else.

Acoustics:
In a typical room with the common high amount of resonance in the lower frequencies (remember all the talk about bass traps changing the world for members?), a sub with less output below 35Hz will cause less resonating, ringing and "bloom" in the room. I could write an essay about this aspect alone, but suffice it to say that when a user compares a sub with tons of output in the 20Hz to 35Hz range to one with a much lower output in that range (especially when setup too loud, as is very common, even among a group like ours), the sub with much more output in the lower bass will be overbearing, rumbly, and ringing more.

Setup:
As alluded to above, most people tune their subs to be about 6dB too loud, even after using a tool Audessey or an SPL meter, because they really want to "hear" their sub and "feel" its power. A sub with 10dB more output at 20Hz will be much too loud when the signal has a ton of deep, deep bass in it and be perceived and boomy and overbearing when compared to one with much less output at those frequencies.

Quality:
Nearly all sealed subs have very high THD+noise when attempting to generate output below their most effective range. So, a sub which has an output curve which is 10dB down at 20Hz will be generating more THD than root signal at those low frequencies. This will be perceived as an audible signal to the listener (when we hear the right harmonics our brain knows there is actual content below that and we are fooled) as deep bass, when in fact it is just THD. Since the room isn't ringing and booming as much, this THD gives the impression of "tighter" bass. Actually it is just harmonic content.


Back in the days when I was still actively engaged in educating people on this stuff, I would put a properly tuned sealed sub and an equally priced ported sub in a room, both tuned perfectly using quality measurement gear, and would let people switch between them while listening to music. What they heard was a drop in deep, chest vibrating bass when they had the sealed sub on. It was an easy choice for the listeners to go with a ported sub as their favorite. Then, when I turned up both subs by 6dB, the sound of the sealed sub would be "punchier" without as much "bloom" while the vented sub would cause more resonance and ringing in the deepest bass and seem "looser".

This should make sense.

So, then the question for every serious buyer is this: Do you want accurate, clean, deep bass from a subwoofer which blends in perfectly to the point it is not obviously in the room? Or, do you want more punch, attack, and obviously audible sub output in the room which "enhances" the sound to your tastes? The former calls for a high quality well tuned ported sub, the latter is best served with a large diaphragm, high power ealed sub. I always prefer accuracy and blending in, so that is always my generic advice.
 
I will also add this....

For subs selling for less than $500, which I would never own (big bass requires more raw materials in a large sub and higher powered amp and larger enclosure, that's physics), the better choice tends to be sealed subs since it is very difficult to get the quality needed at those prices to make a good ported sub. Also, the very design of a sealed sub, how the enclosure controls (limits) the motion of the cone and such, tend to help cheaper driver designs and allows for less wood and shipping costs needed for large enclosures.

For subs in the $500 to $1000 range there is no obvious choice, it depends on each specific model being considered to know which design is better. Sometimes the design decisions made can contribute to better sound for the money in which case a ported sub could be better. Sometimes the design decisions are more about paper specs or appearance where a sealed sub could be better.

For subs over $1000 most of the time a good ported design tends to be best with few exceptions.
 
Another aspect of the sealed versus ported debate is peak output in the lower frequencies.

Due to the way we hear sound, our subs need to generate quite a bit of bass at 20Hz before we can appreciably hear the signal. This is represented quite well with the Equal Loudness Contour (originally known as the Fletcher-Munsen Cruve):

Fletcher-Munson.gif


As you can see, we need our subs to generate at least 75dB SPL at 20Hz in order for our ears to notice the sound. Then we have a very broad range of output above that loudness with a very high threshold for pain well above 120dB SPL.

Few, if any, sealed subs can generate over 110dB SPL at 20Hz with reasonably low THD. Take the venerable SVS PB13 Ultra configured as a sealed as measured by the AV Talk team:

http://www.avtalk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=19274

Look at the peak output and the THD charts then compare them to the same sub configured for the ideal ported load:

http://www.avtalk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=19271

The THD when attempting to produce 105dB SPL for the sealed sub is off the chart at 20Hz for the sealed configuration while the same sub had a THD of merely 5.5% at 20Hz at 105dB SPL for the ideal ported configuration. Think about that for a second!
 
-
Thank you, Flint

:text-goodpost: (posts) ` ` . :handgestures-thumbup:

(you've got to get your avatar off caffeine . . .)
:happy-smileygiantred:
 
For home audio I would build a killer Infinite Baffle sub.

For car audio, I would build something that didn't call too much attention to itself, doesn't take up too much room, and which I wouldn't have a heart attack if it or the car were stolen or destroyed. I don't like the idea of investing so much for a car which is basically a moving criminal attractant.
 
I've been following this thread just out of curiosity. CiscoKid, I think you're going to fit in pretty well around here. Flint is providing excellent tutolage as always.

John
 
Do some searched for infinite baffle designs on this forum and the old S&V forum. I actually have a build thread for my IB sub as does Snowman.

Ultimate an IB sub has the drivers mounted on a surface such that the back side is open to a large volume of air equal to or larger than the room the sub is operating in. I put mine high on the wall and the attic is behind them.
 
Cisco, I had the chance a few years to hear Flints IB system and I have heard tons of subs in my day (high and low end in many many HT systems I have helped install and nothing I mean nothing compares to the deep and clean bass that you would hear in an IB setup. I was not prepared for just how powerful Flints dual IB setup was and it is something once you hear you never ever forget. Flint says it took one day to install and once I get off my lazy ass, I wanna do the same thing because Flint came to my house a year ago and showed me the perfect place to put my driver(s).
 
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