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Speaker wire

walls

Well-Known Member
Picked up a new component stand and when moving the Cornwalls I noticed my somewhat pricey speaker wires were oxidized and turned green.
So I’m going to change them out, any of you have recommendations for good wire?
If memory serves I paid around $100 for what I have now, and honestly IMO at that price this shouldn’t have happened.
 
Picked up a new component stand and when moving the Cornwalls I noticed my somewhat pricey speaker wires were oxidized and turned green.
So I’m going to change them out, any of you have recommendations for good wire?
If memory serves I paid around $100 for what I have now, and honestly IMO at that price this shouldn’t have happened.
I’d just cut off the oxidized portion, strip back the insulation and reuse.
 
I had the same happen many moons ago. I changed them out with in-wall rated 12 AWG wire which I now use on every speaker project.
 
I had the the same thing happen to me some time ago.
The suggestions made by others look good.
Well constructed oxygen free cables that are reasonably priced should be fine.
 
I personally use single strand 16AWG or 14AWG highly flexible silicone insulated hookup wire which I braid to make a two conductor per polarity (two for positive, two for negative) and then tin the ends and use quality generic banana plugs to terminate them.

If you want to spend money, you cannot do any better than cables from Blue Jeans Cables.

I do not recommend any of the so-called audiophile brands as they almost to the tee turn out to be vastly overpriced and are often far less reliable with issues such as terminator failing or experiencing excessive corrosion too quickly.
 
I personally use single strand 16AWG or 14AWG highly flexible silicone insulated hookup wire which I braid to make a two conductor per polarity (two for positive, two for negative) and then tin the ends and use quality generic banana plugs to terminate them.

If you want to spend money, you cannot do any better than cables from Blue Jeans Cables.

I do not recommend any of the so-called audiophile brands as they almost to the tee turn out to be vastly overpriced and are often far less reliable with issues such as terminator failing or experiencing excessive corrosion too quickly.
My receiver is an early 70’s model so I can’t use banana plugs. Do you have a pic of what you use and how you braid them etc. ?
 
Twisting wires is much faster if you secure one end of both wires in the chuck of a portable drill and hold the other end (or have someone else hold the other end if the wires are long). Twist as much as desired. Twisting by the drill motor won't hurt the wires.
 
Twisting wires is much faster if you secure one end of both wires in the chuck of a portable drill and hold the other end (or have someone else hold the other end if the wires are long). Twist as much as desired. Twisting by the drill motor won't hurt the wires.
Yes this is the method I used when I built my Crack, I was just making sure that was what Flint was talking about. Is there any real benefit to braiding them?
My crack….
 

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I don't typically take photos of the wires I braid. This is four strands of 14AWG silicone insulated wire. I just do an old-fashioned plaiting, like you'd do for a girl's hair or whatever. Not complicated. Works like a champ.
 
Yes this is the method I used when I built my Crack, I was just making sure that was what Flint was talking about. Is there any real benefit to braiding them?
My crack….
There's no real benefit in braiding them other than keeping them together and neat. With a speaker load, the impedances through the cable are so low that the added capacitance or inductance of braiding and / or twisting has no impact.
 
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