Department of Dispelling Stupid Ass Amplifier Myths

[Randy]

The ATI has a 12V trigger, it is just that funky one that alot of receivers and pre/pros don't have. I think there was a thread on here, or the old place where Soundhound explained how to make it work.

If not I found a simple solution. I have a Monster Power Center, don't poke fun I got it CHEAP, and I hooked up my 1505 to the "switched" outlet on my power center. When I am ready to use it, I turn the switch on the power center on and VOILA my amp comes on. When I shut everything else down via my Harmony, I simply walk over and redock my Harmony and push the switch on my power center to off.

Now, the only thing in standby mode and drawing any current at all is my power center.

 

[Rope]

Nothing is wrong with my amp - I had been reading a lot of reviews and got it into my head that at some point I should get a new amp and would have to get more of an entry level which worried me. However, I could never understand how that would help my system. Then I read soundhounds great explainations along with the questions and comments of the group here and decided I was crazy and could save my pennies for something that would actually improve my system. But, being the kind of guy that likes to make doubly sure I decided to ask the question in plain english so that even I could understand the answer.

The other thing was I wanted to be able to turn the amp on and off with the pre/pro. I knew a newer amp would provide the connection and make the system more wife friendly.

Thanks to everyone for the clear response - I am keeping my AT1505 and continue to enjoy it. That is one sweet amp!!!

There is no such thing as "stupid questions" around here. Just stupid people who don't ask questions!

I remember asking why the Volume readout on my Pioneer Elite gets smaller as it is turned up? In other words, the numbers go down as the volume goes up. :confusion-scratchheadyellow:

Also, I just leave my amp on. It's been on for about 6 or 7 years now. Not a problem!


Dennie

I take offense to that statement. :angry-tappingfoot:

epoR

 

[Snake Doctor]

The ATI has a 12V trigger, it is just that funky one that alot of receivers and pre/pros don't have. I think there was a thread on here, or the old place where Soundhound explained how to make it work.

If not I found a simple solution. I have a Monster Power Center, don't poke fun I got it CHEAP, and I hooked up my 1505 to the "switched" outlet on my power center. When I am ready to use it, I turn the switch on the power center on and VOILA my amp comes on. When I shut everything else down via my Harmony, I simply walk over and redock my Harmony and push the switch on my power center to off.

Now, the only thing in standby mode and drawing any current at all is my power center.

The ATI is funky once I contacted Blue Jean's to see if they could make a connector that would work. They said not a problem just send them the names of each wire; I was able to do most of them but there was a couple I couldn't figure out. The Blue Jean guy (notice I didn't shorten it to the BJ guy) said they all had to be perfect or something may not play with others and damage either the amp/pre-pro or both (my fears are equipment damage and snakes) so I didn't follow through. Someone at ATI told me they didn't think the Intergra DHC - 9.9 had the umph to power the amp so I just backed off.

Robe's suggestion looks very viable. I have been in touch with the Russound company asking an open ended question and they came back with the same thing Robe said. The ACT-1 and they explained exactly how it works. I think I am going to move forward with that and see if that is the solution.

Slowly but surely I am building my never ending, never quite satisified system. :text-lol:

 

[Dennie]

Nothing is wrong with my amp - I had been reading a lot of reviews and got it into my head that at some point I should get a new amp and would have to get more of an entry level which worried me. However, I could never understand how that would help my system. Then I read soundhounds great explainations along with the questions and comments of the group here and decided I was crazy and could save my pennies for something that would actually improve my system. But, being the kind of guy that likes to make doubly sure I decided to ask the question in plain english so that even I could understand the answer.

The other thing was I wanted to be able to turn the amp on and off with the pre/pro. I knew a newer amp would provide the connection and make the system more wife friendly.

Thanks to everyone for the clear response - I am keeping my AT1505 and continue to enjoy it. That is one sweet amp!!!

There is no such thing as "stupid questions" around here. Just stupid people who don't ask questions!

I remember asking why the Volume readout on my Pioneer Elite gets smaller as it is turned up? In other words, the numbers go down as the volume goes up. :confusion-scratchheadyellow:

Also, I just leave my amp on. It's been on for about 6 or 7 years now. Not a problem!


Dennie

I take offense to that statement. :angry-tappingfoot:

epoR

Ahhh......Well...... You should! :confusion-shrug:

But that's why we love you! bscene-drinkingcheers:


Dennie :teasing-neener:

 

[Rope]

The ATI has a 12V trigger, it is just that funky one that alot of receivers and pre/pros don't have. I think there was a thread on here, or the old place where Soundhound explained how to make it work.

If not I found a simple solution. I have a Monster Power Center, don't poke fun I got it CHEAP, and I hooked up my 1505 to the "switched" outlet on my power center. When I am ready to use it, I turn the switch on the power center on and VOILA my amp comes on. When I shut everything else down via my Harmony, I simply walk over and redock my Harmony and push the switch on my power center to off.

Now, the only thing in standby mode and drawing any current at all is my power center.

The ATI is funky once I contacted Blue Jean's to see if they could make a connector that would work. They said not a problem just send them the names of each wire; I was able to do most of them but there was a couple I couldn't figure out. The Blue Jean guy (notice I didn't shorten it to the BJ guy) said they all had to be perfect or something may not play with others and damage either the amp/pre-pro or both (my fears are equipment damage and snakes) so I didn't follow through. Someone at ATI told me they didn't think the Intergra DHC - 9.9 had the umph to power the amp so I just backed off.

Robe's suggestion looks very viable. I have been in touch with the Russound company asking an open ended question and they came back with the same thing Robe said. The ACT-1 and they explained exactly how it works. I think I am going to move forward with that and see if that is the solution.

Slowly but surely I am building my never ending, never quite satisified system. :text-lol:

I used the Russound offering with a Bryston 5B-ST, which has since been sold. However, I would contact Jeff at ATI, and ask him for the pin out on the 1505, or a schematic to send to Bruce (?) at Blue Jeans.

Rope

 

[Snake Doctor]

The ATI has a 12V trigger, it is just that funky one that alot of receivers and pre/pros don't have. I think there was a thread on here, or the old place where Soundhound explained how to make it work.

If not I found a simple solution. I have a Monster Power Center, don't poke fun I got it CHEAP, and I hooked up my 1505 to the "switched" outlet on my power center. When I am ready to use it, I turn the switch on the power center on and VOILA my amp comes on. When I shut everything else down via my Harmony, I simply walk over and redock my Harmony and push the switch on my power center to off.

Now, the only thing in standby mode and drawing any current at all is my power center.

The ATI is funky once I contacted Blue Jean's to see if they could make a connector that would work. They said not a problem just send them the names of each wire; I was able to do most of them but there was a couple I couldn't figure out. The Blue Jean guy (notice I didn't shorten it to the BJ guy) said they all had to be perfect or something may not play with others and damage either the amp/pre-pro or both (my fears are equipment damage and snakes) so I didn't follow through. Someone at ATI told me they didn't think the Intergra DHC - 9.9 had the umph to power the amp so I just backed off.

Robe's suggestion looks very viable. I have been in touch with the Russound company asking an open ended question and they came back with the same thing Robe said. The ACT-1 and they explained exactly how it works. I think I am going to move forward with that and see if that is the solution.

Slowly but surely I am building my never ending, never quite satisified system. :text-lol:

I used the Russound offering with a Bryston 5B-ST, which has since been sold. However, I would contact Jeff at ATI, and ask him for the pin out on the 1505, or a schematic to send to Bruce (?) at Blue Jeans.

Rope

I tired to contact Jeff but the email kicked back on me so I emailed customer servie and Tech Support (which I am more comfortable with) and received and answer from Steve. Do you know him?

 

[Rope]

^^
Haven't had the pleasure of speaking with Steve, although if Steve is one of the electrical engineers, the information he gave you will be good.

If you'd prefer speaking with Jeff:
323-278-0001

Rope

 

[Snake Doctor]

^^
Haven't had the pleasure of speaking with Steve, although if Steve is one of the electrical engineers, the information he gave you will be good.

If you'd prefer speaking with Jeff:
323-278-0001

Rope

Wait Jeff is with ATI?

Steve is with Russound. Do you think it would be better to get the pin information from Jeff and send the information to Bruce rather than get the ACT-1?

 

[Snake Doctor]

Nothing is wrong with my amp - I had been reading a lot of reviews and got it into my head that at some point I should get a new amp and would have to get more of an entry level which worried me. However, I could never understand how that would help my system. Then I read soundhounds great explainations along with the questions and comments of the group here and decided I was crazy and could save my pennies for something that would actually improve my system. But, being the kind of guy that likes to make doubly sure I decided to ask the question in plain english so that even I could understand the answer.

The other thing was I wanted to be able to turn the amp on and off with the pre/pro. I knew a newer amp would provide the connection and make the system more wife friendly.

Thanks to everyone for the clear response - I am keeping my AT1505 and continue to enjoy it. That is one sweet amp!!!

There is no such thing as "stupid questions" around here. Just stupid people who don't ask questions!

I remember asking why the Volume readout on my Pioneer Elite gets smaller as it is turned up? In other words, the numbers go down as the volume goes up. :confusion-scratchheadyellow:

Also, I just leave my amp on. It's been on for about 6 or 7 years now. Not a problem!


Dennie

I tried leaving my amp on and after the third time I took it to the shop I was ready to junk it. Everyone on the boards were very surprised since they never had issues with the ATI; then it dawned on me the problem may be over headting so I removed all of the glass from the cabinet opened the back and only turn the amp on when I am going to use it.

That seemed to solve the problem I haven't had any trouble with it since; so as usual the problem was not with my equipment it was with the guy setting up the equipment......me. :text-bump:

 

[Rope]

^^
Haven't had the pleasure of speaking with Steve, although if Steve is one of the electrical engineers, the information he gave you will be good.

If you'd prefer speaking with Jeff:
323-278-0001

Rope

Wait Jeff is with ATI?

Steve is with Russound. Do you think it would be better to get the pin information from Jeff and send the information to Bruce rather than get the ACT-1?

Yes, Jeff can tell you exactly what cable Bruce needs to make with the ATI 1505 funky trigger pin-in. Spending money on the correct cable so the 12v trigger works properly is worth 10 Russounds.

Rope

 

[Snake Doctor]

^^
Haven't had the pleasure of speaking with Steve, although if Steve is one of the electrical engineers, the information he gave you will be good.

If you'd prefer speaking with Jeff:
323-278-0001

Rope

Wait Jeff is with ATI?

Steve is with Russound. Do you think it would be better to get the pin information from Jeff and send the information to Bruce rather than get the ACT-1?

Yes, Jeff can tell you exactly what cable Bruce needs to make with the ATI 1505 funky trigger pin-in. Spending money on the correct cable so the 12v trigger works properly is worth 10 Russounds.

Rope

Okay, here is where I am. I e-mailed ATI and hooked up with John he gave me the pin information that I would need. He is also sending me a manual for the ATI which will go out today. Great man to work with.

Then I contacted Blue Jeans via email and got Andrew who priced out making a standard 1/8" connect to a 25 pin connector for the trigger voltages only....so a custom made item for $35, plus the "actual cost of shipping"; the Rusound Dealer wanted $55 plus I had to track it down. It was a no brainer I went for it.

I will let you know when I receive it and if it "actually does the job"!! Great recommendation and thank you!!! :banana-rock: :banana-rock: :banana-rock:

 

[Rope]

^^
If the AT 1500 owners manual is loose leaf (not a booklet), we should scan it to .pdf and post a copy online, since there are a multitude of people inquiring about a copy of that owners guide.

Rope

 

[AndySTL]

I'm a little late to the party, but I just ordered a smart power strip for my amplifier. In doing some research, it seems like alot of people that have amps that don't have a 12v trigger use this method. It has an outlet that is considered the control outlet. The power strip senses when the device in the control outlet is powered on and then turns on the other outlets. It's designed for energy savings, but works well for HT use too. It was only $25 on Amazon. So in your case, you can plug the pre/pro into the control outlet and the ATI into one of the "smart" outlets.

http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Energy-Saving-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=pd_vtp_e_3

 

[Razz]

Snake,
I too own a 1505. I tinkered with the thought of up grading for the same reasons you did. I didn't come up with that solution and eventually bought a new ATI 2007. Cost me a boatload and end result is I don't really notice any difference. :angry-banghead: Maybe a touch louder at really high volumes actually.

At least it turns on and off from my Harmony remote now.

I like the ATI 1505 that I wont sell mine. Keeping it for a second set up the day I ever get a bigger house.

 

[heeman]

I'm a little late to the party, but I just ordered a smart power strip for my amplifier. In doing some research, it seems like alot of people that have amps that don't have a 12v trigger use this method. It has an outlet that is considered the control outlet. The power strip senses when the device in the control outlet is powered on and then turns on the other outlets. It's designed for energy savings, but works well for HT use too. It was only $25 on Amazon. So in your case, you can plug the pre/pro into the control outlet and the ATI into one of the "smart" outlets.

http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Energy-Saving-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=pd_vtp_e_3

jMy concerning using this product for Amplifier connection to the Input Voltage source is the Ampacity Rating of this device.

High Powered Amps often have ratings in excess of 7-8 amps or more. This device is not suitable for this high current application for multiple amplifiers and/or Multi Channel amps.

 

[AndySTL]

I'm a little late to the party, but I just ordered a smart power strip for my amplifier. In doing some research, it seems like alot of people that have amps that don't have a 12v trigger use this method. It has an outlet that is considered the control outlet. The power strip senses when the device in the control outlet is powered on and then turns on the other outlets. It's designed for energy savings, but works well for HT use too. It was only $25 on Amazon. So in your case, you can plug the pre/pro into the control outlet and the ATI into one of the "smart" outlets.

http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Energy-Saving-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=pd_vtp_e_3

jMy concerning using this product for Amplifier connection to the Input Voltage source is the Ampacity Rating of this device.

High Powered Amps often have ratings in excess of 7-8 amps or more. This device is not suitable for this high current application for multiple amplifiers and/or Multi Channel amps.

Where do you see the amp rating? I'm not doubting you, but I didn't see anything related to it and I don't want to use it if that's the case.

 

[heeman]

I'm a little late to the party, but I just ordered a smart power strip for my amplifier. In doing some research, it seems like alot of people that have amps that don't have a 12v trigger use this method. It has an outlet that is considered the control outlet. The power strip senses when the device in the control outlet is powered on and then turns on the other outlets. It's designed for energy savings, but works well for HT use too. It was only $25 on Amazon. So in your case, you can plug the pre/pro into the control outlet and the ATI into one of the "smart" outlets.

http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Energy-Saving-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=pd_vtp_e_3

jMy concerning using this product for Amplifier connection to the Input Voltage source is the Ampacity Rating of this device.

High Powered Amps often have ratings in excess of 7-8 amps or more. This device is not suitable for this high current application for multiple amplifiers and/or Multi Channel amps.

Where do you see the amp rating? I'm not doubting you, but I didn't see anything related to it and I don't want to use it if that's the case.

Typical Full Load Rating for a product like this will be 12.5 AMPS Max.

Product Description
This Smart Strip 7-outlet power strip The Smart Strip SCG3 provides a safe, uninterrupted power supply, auto-switches devices on and off to save energy, uses less than one watt of power when fully energized, offers an EMI/RFI filter and 15 AMP circuit breaker, and delivers 1225-joule and 48,000 AMP protection.

 

[AndySTL]

How about this one? It's quite a bit more expensive, but it has 3 outlets controlled by 12v trigger. I was hoping to not have to spend this much.

http://www.amazon.com/Panamax-M10-H...sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328297099&sr=8-1-spell

 

[heeman]

How about this one? It's quite a bit more expensive, but it has 3 outlets controlled by 12v trigger. I was hoping to not have to spend this much.

http://www.amazon.com/Panamax-M10-H...sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328297099&sr=8-1-spell

Andy,

What is the Nameplate current rating on your Amplifier(s) that you are trying to switch on?

Keith

 

[AndySTL]

How about this one? It's quite a bit more expensive, but it has 3 outlets controlled by 12v trigger. I was hoping to not have to spend this much.

http://www.amazon.com/Panamax-M10-H...sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328297099&sr=8-1-spell

Andy,

What is the Nameplate current rating on your Amplifier(s) that you are trying to switch on?

Keith

It's a Sony TA-N9000ES: AC 120v 60 Hz 4.5A