• Welcome to The Audio Annex! If you have any trouble logging in or signing up, please contact 'admin - at - theaudioannex.com'. Enjoy!
  • HTTPS (secure web browser connection) has been enabled - just add "https://" to the start of the URL in your address bar, e.g. "https://theaudioannex.com/forum/"
  • Congratulations! If you're seeing this notice, it means you're connected to the new server. Go ahead and post as usual, enjoy!
  • I've just upgraded the forum software to Xenforo 2.0. Please let me know if you have any problems with it. I'm still working on installing styles... coming soon.

Infinite Baffle in the Batcave?


"Do you know who I am?"
No amount of loudness from a standard box sub can compare to an equal quality IB subwoofer in terms of detail, realism, punch, and resolution. You want power and that lovely "sense of scale" great systems acheive, you either need multiple massive professional grade subs (tuned properly) or a killer IB setup.


Well-Known Member
I would do it if I were you. If for no other reason than a tangible project you can get yours hands into. Sounds like loads of fun!


Well-Known Member
DIYer said:
Flint said:
... oh and that other bloke with the huge JBL sub.
No way. :snooty: That dude has only one of those and it's not tuned properly.
..but, but, but it was stuffed with socks! You've never heard bass that knocked your socks off!


I'm famous now bitches! vvvvv
One other thing that is not being mentioned here is cost. I think all things being equal, an IB sub should cost less than a brand name of equal performance like the SVS.

From discussions in the past, Flint's recommendations for my setup would be about $500 less than a new PB-13. So, in that regard, I think it would be a cheaper for Bats to implement an IB setup than to buy a second sub.


Well-Known Member
I think you should do it. Build onto the stem walls you have in front and off to the sides of the screen ("L" them into the back wall). Connect them to the space between floors and the other space you were describing and put the drivers facing the screen. No sheet rock to cut and if you don't like it, it wouldn't be THAT hard to undo.

John- Who just wants to watch a cool project come together.


Humble Servant
Razz said:
this is a bit odd to me..... Bats, the SVS ultra-13 in your room may not look as good as you want, but I have never heard such a bass response in any room. If you don't like the "look" of it then maybe you should design a cover of some sort and make it look like part of the cave. There are many transparent materials that you can hide that beast in your room with.

Honestly man.... That thing works perfectly in your room and gives a complete "pressurized" feel to the sub. It's awesome!!!! It bested (2) Dynaudio 500 subs!!!!!

My advise, don't bother with an IB sub. Just hide the SVS with some transparent get up. Don't try and fix what's NOT broken. You already tried an upgrade to the dual Dynaudios.... and that was a failure. Keep the SVS..... If you want to get crazy then buy a second SVS and make them BOTH hidden into and part of the cave.
Hey Razz,

I'm not even a mod here but you bout to get the straight up ban stick!!! How dare you attempt to deter someone from starting a new project...much less an IB! :naughty:

You need to re-evaluate your priorities and get yourself together young man. :angry-tappingfoot:


Behind the Curtain
Staff member
Now that's a cool idea. I wonder if there's any performance drawbacks to having drivers facing each other that way? (Flint?)


Well-Known Member
Staff member
Some of those manifolds have smallish looking outlets. I thought the outlet area of the manifold should at least equal the area of the drivers. A dual 18" driver set-up would require a manifold with an outlet area of 508.9". If the manifold is constructed with 3/4" MDF the max opening between studs is 13". That means the manifold's opening would need to be 13" x 39.15".

Math is hard for a dummy like me so please correct me if I'm wrong.


"Do you know who I am?"
The manifold is an excellent approach if you really want to hide the woofers from view. You do want to avoid a driver area to manifold mouth area ratio which causes high resistance to the drivers' forward output, but any ratio not exceeding 4:1 will not be a problem (except at extremely high excursion levels).

Look at it this way... if the effective cone area of all the woofers combined is 800 in^2 and the mouth opening area is 200 in^2, then if the woofer cones have to move 2mm P-P to generate 100dB SPL at a given frequency, the effective acoustic piston throw of the mouth will be 8mm P-P. That shouldn't be a problem. It's when the effective acoustic (or air) piston throw of the mouth gets so high as to cause high turbulence or the pressures inside the manifold are extremely high that you have to worry about the performance.


Active Member
There was once a review by an editor of S&V of a crazy manifold build that had something like 12 or 14 18" drivers in it, mounted in the basement. I'll have to find it again.

It was loosening light bulbs and floor boards.


Well-Known Member
Staff member
:text-bump: Flint can you provide a link to the second set of 15" drivers you alluded to. You had said there was a better buy/option than the Dayton woofers??

I'm continuing to research what all of the components are going to cost me...