From Twin 12's to Quad 15's
- Thread starter Zing
- Start date
Babs
Queen "B"
DIYer said:
I feel, it is the bald head. Ever since Zing has been shaving his head, since 1998, so many refer to him looking like other bald people. I am partial, Zing always looks perfect! He wears baldness well!!!!
Maxi-me too!
Some, just don't wear it well!!!
I will shut up now, again, too partial!!! :roll:
TitaniumTroy
Well-Known Member
Actually Botch, I was expecting lower bass extension from the Hippo's butt explosion. I imagine that is what MattB's micro subwoofer sounds like. Kind of tizzy with not much mid bass poop slam!
By the way Zing your system looks very nice, keep us updated on using the new subs.
By the way Zing your system looks very nice, keep us updated on using the new subs.
D
Deleted member 133
Guest
I misspoke. Good catch. Reverse everything I said. The LFE output gets decreased slightly to get a decreased reading on the RS. It's been a while since I last had to set it up.Zing said:
Jeff
(Still Maxi-Me - and proud of it!)
ps. I'm using the old analogue RS meter.
ps. In my main HT, where I use a separate external Xover between the mains and three subs (as described in other posts), I use a Velo SMS-1 to set up the relative levels between subs and mains. Once that's done I treat all of that as "mains" and then calibrate the big SVS sub that handles only the LFE, using the RS meter. It's only there that I need to worry about the RS' response curve. I assume that the SMS-1's needs none - but I've never verified that assumption.
heeman said:
This is a subject which I find very interesting. Jim and I are in the process of editing down several "whys and hows" on some basics for the website what is a Gain control , bass management tips, what do subwoofer "specs" really tell you, etc. Once we get caught up with there I'd like to find time to explore more advanced topics such as measured extension(and compression) , burst output measurements, and how these two metrics can go a long way in predicting how a subwoofer will sound to us. One of the things I enjoy most about this hobby/industry is I learn more each day. I forget just as much...but at least I'm treading water..
Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
Tom what about a dual driver design with a 10" driver for mid bass crossed over to a 15" for the lower bass extension all in one cabinet but with separate chambers. Make the 10" chamber a ported design while the 15" sealed. I know nothing about design but just a conglomerate of subs I've owned and read about.
MatthewB said:
I can't say there's no merit to the idea but it is all about trade-offs...
Would this work better than just using the entire enclosure for the sealed 15(s) and also putting all of the driver cost into the single/dual 15(versus splitting it up between the 10s too? It would be a fun exercise I suppose...but most of the ideas related to this actually had the "bigger" drivers ported and the small woofs sealed.
Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
The new subs are settled nicely in their new home and things are working very well. This was a worthwhile upgrade to say the least and I have no regrets whatsoever. However, there is a small hurdle I'd like to clear, if I can.
I've known for a while this hobby is all about trade-offs, concessions and sacrifices. You choose your priority, act accordingly and let the other chips fall where they may. In this case, I'm talking about the sweet spot and the remaining not-as-sweet spots. More to the point, the disparity between them.
With the previous sub, I had things set up so that the center seat achieved the best possible sound. The outer flanking seats got something slightly less. In an attempt to quantify it, let's say that on a scale of 1-10 where 10 is the most impressive, the center seat was a 8 and the outside seats were a 7. With the new subs, the center seat has become a 10 and the outer seats are an 8. There are gains at every seat with the new subs but the difference between them is also greater.
As much as I'd like to "spread the wealth" (so to speak), I'm not looking to decrease center-seat performance in order to make all 3 seats more equal. Ideally, I'd just like to increase the performance at the outer seats. Whether that's possible or not, I don't know. What do you think? Do you think this "problem" can be corrected electronically (i.e., Phase adjustment)? Or might it be a placement issue (i.e., the orientation of the subs)?
I've known for a while this hobby is all about trade-offs, concessions and sacrifices. You choose your priority, act accordingly and let the other chips fall where they may. In this case, I'm talking about the sweet spot and the remaining not-as-sweet spots. More to the point, the disparity between them.
With the previous sub, I had things set up so that the center seat achieved the best possible sound. The outer flanking seats got something slightly less. In an attempt to quantify it, let's say that on a scale of 1-10 where 10 is the most impressive, the center seat was a 8 and the outside seats were a 7. With the new subs, the center seat has become a 10 and the outer seats are an 8. There are gains at every seat with the new subs but the difference between them is also greater.
As much as I'd like to "spread the wealth" (so to speak), I'm not looking to decrease center-seat performance in order to make all 3 seats more equal. Ideally, I'd just like to increase the performance at the outer seats. Whether that's possible or not, I don't know. What do you think? Do you think this "problem" can be corrected electronically (i.e., Phase adjustment)? Or might it be a placement issue (i.e., the orientation of the subs)?
The "problem" (and I use the term loosely) is that the outer seats lack the physical effect from extremely low LFEs.
As an example, Chapter 10 from Rob Zombie's Halloween. There are a few moments in that scene when the LFEs are so low, there's almost nothing to hear but everything to feel. And that feeling is on par with a mild earthquake. Well, I can get that feeling in the center seat but not the others.
More often than not, it's just the two of us. Still, only one of us gets to experience it at any given time. So I'd like to broaden the LFE sweet spot if I can.
As an example, Chapter 10 from Rob Zombie's Halloween. There are a few moments in that scene when the LFEs are so low, there's almost nothing to hear but everything to feel. And that feeling is on par with a mild earthquake. Well, I can get that feeling in the center seat but not the others.
More often than not, it's just the two of us. Still, only one of us gets to experience it at any given time. So I'd like to broaden the LFE sweet spot if I can.
Placement........
From what I have learned over the past months, is that the introduction of a second or third sub, will smooth out the frequency response for locations in the room, by placement. It appears that your room has limited sub placement issues, just like mine does.
There are calculators out there that will show where the nodes are and where placement would be optimized, however these are starting points and used just as starting points.
I think what DIYer has said kinda sums it up.....However I know you well enough that you are just striving for the best possible setup within your constraints. I do that all the time................ You know that as well!!
Have Fun!!
:music-rockout: :music-rockout:
On a side note................... This past Saturday Night Barb and I decided to put in the "This Is It" Michael Jackson Blu Ray. I was never a huge fan, but like some of his stuff. This is a fantastic BR and has some very powerful Sub Material. Check it out if you have not already!! You will be kicked in the chest by 3 of those gray animals......
From what I have learned over the past months, is that the introduction of a second or third sub, will smooth out the frequency response for locations in the room, by placement. It appears that your room has limited sub placement issues, just like mine does.
There are calculators out there that will show where the nodes are and where placement would be optimized, however these are starting points and used just as starting points.
I think what DIYer has said kinda sums it up.....However I know you well enough that you are just striving for the best possible setup within your constraints. I do that all the time................ You know that as well!!
Have Fun!!
:music-rockout: :music-rockout:
On a side note................... This past Saturday Night Barb and I decided to put in the "This Is It" Michael Jackson Blu Ray. I was never a huge fan, but like some of his stuff. This is a fantastic BR and has some very powerful Sub Material. Check it out if you have not already!! You will be kicked in the chest by 3 of those gray animals......
Based upon a few articles I've read, 2 subs centered on opposing walls - front/back or left/right - facing into the center of the room is a good starting point. In your case, where you already have them on opposing walls but not centered, can you move them farther along the sidewalls toward the center of each sidewall? And turn them 90 degrees so one driver faces the sidewall a few inches away, and the other driver faces the center of the room.