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HTIP - Home Theater In Progress

As I view it, this pic is really deceptive. Without having seen the recliner(s) on the lower right, it appears the table is setting up front, very close to the projector screen.
HT-3-1.jpg


Rope
 
I can see why it looks confusing.

I used a rather wide angle lens in an attempt to get as much of the room as possible and that makes it tough to discern distances. It's 11'4" from the screen the back of the recliner's headrest. So it's pretty close to 12' from the front edge of the table to the screen. The table itself is 21" deep and is 8' long and 40" high. From the back edge of the table to front edge of the base cabinet is 3'6". That works because the widest cabinet door (once it's built) will be 2' wide, so I should be just able to fully open the doors without having to move the stools.
 
Maximo said:
I like it too. I would be tempted to mount the surround high on the top of the back cabinet pointing down.

Please let me know if you can refer me to a wall mount that can support these heavy-assed speakers and offers more than a few degrees of tilt.
 
Towen7 said:
Maximo said:
I like it too. I would be tempted to mount the surround high on the top of the back cabinet pointing down.

Please let me know if you can refer me to a wall mount that can support these heavy-assed speakers and offers more than a few degrees of tilt.
Omnimount 30.0 WB ?

:text-link:

31NVZE4HNpL.jpg
 
Those are the only one's I've found. I'm not wild about the idea of drilling holes into my speaker cabinets though.
 
Towen7 said:
Those are the only one's I've found. I'm not wild about the idea of drilling holes into my speaker cabinets though.

645968.jpg
:happy-smileygiantred:

Rope
 
Botch, please keep adult toy images in free for all section. Thank you. :law-policered:
 
DIYer said:
Botch, please keep adult toy images in free for all section. Thank you. :law-policered:
:D Actually I was looking for something a bit more, uh, specific, that a friend of mine and his wife had, but this was the closest thing I could find (and its actually advertised as a baby's hammock, so there!) :teasing-neener:
 
I have had the VTF-15H in the room and have been experimenting with placement options that I don't have with the SVS cylinder. Because of it's height and the door at the front left of the room I can on place the SVS in front right corner. I tried placing the SVS in the rear of the room but found it distracting because every once-in-a-while I could tell the bass was behind me. Because the Hsu box fits under the screen I was able to use RTA and move the HSU along the entire front stage and found that placing it between the left and center speakers removed a significant 100Hz null (even though it's crossed over at 70Hz) generally smoothed-out the rest of the bass curve. Aesthetically I prefer the sub in the empty corner but I don't hate the way it looks where it is.

Sorry for the crappy pic... I'll post better ones after I come to my final decision and re-run the wires...

DSC_1193.jpg
 
Towen7 said:
Maximo said:
... maybe a full conversion into some sort of bar/booze locker would be in order for the cabinetry.

Ive had that thought too. There will be room in the center cabinet for a mini-fridge and my modest collection of booze.
Maybe you can find a dorm fridge about the same size as your sub, paint it black and cover the door with speaker cloth, and set it next to the right-hand main speaker. Then everytime you got up to get another all the other viewers would see you and yell, "Grab me one too!"


just trying to help... :happy-smileygiantred:
 
I think it looks great! The bigger question for me though, is how does it sound?

John
 
I did a little more tweeking last night. I was running the 15H with both ports open, EQ2, Q7 but I found that it lacked the tactile oomph (sorry for the technical terms) that the SVS had. I decided to try one port plugged, EQ2, and Q5. I'll be honest... I have no idea what the Q control is supposed to do. Moving it had little if any effect on the response curve. Speaking of which... Here are the plots for the room post tweeking...

RTA12.jpg
 
Towen7 said:
I have no idea what the Q control is supposed to do. Moving it had little if any effect on the response curve. Speaking of which... Here are the plots for the room post tweeking...

I'm not quite sure either, but this is what HSU said about the 3 setting combination for my room size (5000+ cubic feet) and volume level (typically -10dBFS for movies):

  • On the VTF-15H I would start with both ports open, operating mode switch
    set to "EQ2", and Q control set to 0.3. This will give the highest output
    capability. Then experiment with one port plugged (keeping everything else
    the same). Your overall playback levels are high enough where I'm not sure
    you will need to go all the way up to Q = 0.7 . Perhaps you can try Q =
    0.5 though.

    Good question about one port plugged, EQ1, Q = 0.7 . The sub may be too
    deep bass heavy this way unless listening at relatively low playback
    levels. I think that EQ2 and a somewhat lower Q setting will be better at
    your listening levels, and will give better mid-bass performance too.

The manual says this about the Q setting:

  • We have added an adjustable Q control on the subwoofer amplifier in order to give the user higher headroom, flatter in-room response,
    and better ability to take advantage of room gain. Set Q = 0.3 for the highest mid-bass headroom in all room sizes, and for the flattest
    deep bass response in small-to-medium room sizes. Set Q = 0.5 for the flattest deep bass response in medium-to-large room sizes. Set
    Q = 0.7 for the flattest deep bass response in large room sizes. Note that the low bass is more rolled off in the lower Q settings. This
    means that higher Q settings can result in less low bass headroom, ie. the subwoofer will run out of steam in the low bass earlier when
    the Q setting is higher.
 
I've read the manual and the posts over at AVS. I understand what the Q control is supposed to do, just don't understand how it does it. How does changing from Q.3 to Q.5 result in the "flattest deep base response"? And what exactly is a medium-large sized room? There are other factors that impact the "flatness" of the response so I'm struggling with what the Q control does to the actual signal.
 
So you aren't getting any change in response when you change the Q setting? Are the three plots on the graph you post all the same Q? I assume it's showing the physical move of the sub since you spoke of the 100hz null.

Could the room acoustics be making any of the response curve modifications that the Q setting would provide moot?

I'll likely be in the same boat as you when my sub comes tomorrow (expected delivery). Though I probably won't get to do much with it until the weekend.
 
I'm likely out of my league attempting to address this but, typically in the speaker/driver world, "Q" is a T/S parameter for the ratio of resistance to reactance. So perhaps this adjustment changes the driver's resistance, thereby changing its reactance which in turn will alter its output characteristics.
 
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