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Saldog's Basement Build Thread

I didn't mention the floor yet. We have all the Dricore bought to do the whole finished space. We will put carpet over it everywhere, except for the striped area by the stairs and table, which will be some kind of laminate or engineered wood.

For construction, we will build walls first, then put down Dricore instead of putting the walls on top of the Dricore as i've seen some people at AVSforum do.

I will probably post on AVSforum once we start doing stuff (as opposed to just planning), but haven't yet because AVSers seem to push certain things i have no interest in (acoustically transparent screens, inwall speakers, going overboard on soundproofing, weird approaches to absorption, a proclivity to pay someone to design your theater, etc).
 
saldog said:
- Was planning an 8” riser, so that I didn’t need an intermediate step. I don’t want to go higher than that anyway, to ensure head-clearance.

I suggest mocking-up the seating setup before you place the screen at it's permanent height.

saldog said:
- Thanks for the comments on the barstools for a 3rd row. You’re right they may not be able to see over the second row… will have to ponder that

I love the bar. So practical. Consider how often you are going to have to seat so many people that you'll use the bar and the 2nd row at the same time. You can always pull a stool to the left and right if you need to. I dont have a third row (just 2 rows for 9 seats) so when I need to seat 10 or more I bring in stools on sides of the second row, essentially making a wider 2nd row. They are tall enough to see over the first row. Another option is to extend the 8" riser for the second row to the the bar area.

I'm really looking forward to watching this come together.
 
Where will the projector go?

With the somewhat limited height in the space I'm guessing over the first row seats.
 
I decided to use OSB plywood for the first layer anywhere I'd typically use DD/GG combo. Reason being is you get nearly identical results and it gives you a more solid material to sink a screw into fro the second layer which would be sheet rock. If your only soundproofing the ceiling in the theater the couple extra $$/sheet pays off bigtime during installation. Then after it won't be super critical to catch a stud when/if attaching lightweight items to the ceiling or walls. Obviously find a stud if attaching something heavy still easily done with a stud finder....whether using Sheetrock or OSB you'll want to seal all seams with acoustical caulk then stagger the seams by offsetting layers. This is a must if you're going to bother with soundproofing or you may as well not waste time, effort or $ doing it.
 
saldog said:
- I need to get a building permit for doing improvements inside the house. Was just curious how much detail is normally required on drawings for that purpose.
Your local building department should have list of required documents for permit process. See if they have website or contact them. You may need to get architect's stamp and signature on the drawing to get in the "door" which would require professional service fee. :(

On a side note, you have to provide natural light and ventilation (window) to bedroom and living room (one with sofa drawn in?) to pass the permit. Blocking them as the drawing currently suggests, will not pass.
 
I count 2 windows in theater/living area, 1 window in office and 1 window in bedroom... :think:
 
Batman said:
I count 2 windows in theater/living area, 1 window in office and 1 window in bedroom... :think:
Ummm... :( V
DIYer said:
Blocking them as the drawing currently suggests, will not pass.
^ What I meant by living room is the one with a sofa and a desk.
 
The top-right room will probably be used as a spare bedroom, but for permit purposes, it'll be called "storage". The bottom right room will be my wife's craft room/office, but again will be called "storage" on the permit application. The main area will just be called "rec room".

All room do have their own windows (small, ~2'x1.5'). We will put a vent from the HVAC system in the main room, but we hadn't really thought about the other two rooms. The basement never gets overly cold or hot, so i'm not too worried about temperature, but i do want to ensure proper air turnover for ventilation, and prevent any "basement" smell.
 
Well, permits application is submitted, so now we wait...

Out of curiosity, how expensive were other people's permits? We are finishing 800 sf, and our permit application cost $400, plus ~$100 for electrical (won't get actual amount until it's reviewed). That seems outrageous. Perhaps that's what we get for moving to the town where all the rich people live.
 
Permit fees are absolutely riddiculous. I have heard of some being hihger than yours.
 
Zing said:
Randy said:
When did 16 become a multiple of 1.5? :eek:bscene-buttred: :happy-smileygiantred: :eek:bscene-buttred: :happy-smileygiantred:
When 24 became the second dimension.



(16 x 1.5 = 24).

Fail.

:laughing:


(Sorry Randy, I couldn't resist).



That's going to be a bad ass room when you get done with it Saldog. Subscribed!
 
Sound isolation for the mechanical room you should consider a heavy solid core door like exterior door with good sealing to prevent any noise from the wash area or the furnace area.
 
Re reading this thread, and 16 IS STILL NOT A MULTIPLE OF 1.5. Which is what was stated originally, and what I called into question.

Zing said:
Dimensions of 16x24 would be an acoustic nightmare. They are multiples of 1.5, 2, 4 and 8.

Yes, 16x1.5=24, making 24 a multiple of 1.5 but I that is not what he said. :teasing-neener:
 
Got the permits! First item of business: clean out the basement, then seal the walls with Drylok (just for peace of mind).
 
I'm sure you're excited!

I can't wait to start seeing pics of the progress.
 
Great! Let the fun begin! Yeah, you know we're all gonna be begging for pictures, even of the "boring" stuff like sealing walls. :laughing:
 
Man, that is great, what an exciting project!!

Best of luck and keep us informed of the progress made!


:banana-dance: :banana-rock: :music-rockout: :banana-rock: :banana-dance:
 
saldog said:
Got the permits! First item of business: clean out the basement, then seal the walls with Drylok (just for peace of mind).
Sweet!! Regarding the drylock, make sure you don't roll it on too thin, otherwise it's just a waste of money and effort/time...Have fun and enjoy the ride, next thing you know three years will have passed since watching the first movie and you'll be a GTG veteran. :happy-smileygiantred:
 
saldog said:
Got the permits! First item of business: clean out the basement, then seal the walls with Drylok (just for peace of mind).
I used drylock on my last house basement which was always damp and moldy smelling,especially in the summer.to do it right its hard work since you should first wire brush any loose or dusty concrete and wash the walls(I used a garden hose and shop vac) Then use a mason brush and actually scrub it on to penetrate the cement pores, I also used a garage floor paint for the floor. But what a diffrence it made. After it had no odor or moisture at all. I highly recomend it
 
^ Yeah, in my last home, I had concerns about the foundation and the builder had also left several of those metal tabs behind from the casting process. I went and removed all those (they're designed to be bent back and forth and break away) wire brushed all loose debris and vacuumed. Then I inspected for any potential issues in the foundation and patched them. On day one I went around with a throw-away brush and the drylok and really brushed in a lot of the sealant into the all the patches and potential trouble spots and corners. Came back the next weekend rolled on a heavy 1st coat and then the next weekend rolled on a 2nd coat. Total pain in the ass but worth it for the peace of mind. Drylok is too expensive to not do it right. Frankly, in this current basement, the thought never crossed my mind ( :scared-eek: ) I guess I hated the process so much the first go 'round I had blocked it from my memory....oops.
 
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